Design & Detail
The setting you choose for your diamond or coloured stone is critical to the way your jewel will hold and reflect light. In creating something uniquely suited to your tastes and your particular needs, Era Design will explore the possibilities that different settings offer you. For example:
Bezel. A bezel is like a lip of metal that surrounds the edge of a precious stone. Bezels are very durable, and are ideal for people with active lifestyles. If you set a diamond in a white gold bezel it may appear larger.
Claw settings. Claw (or prong) settings are always very popular, and don’t seem to go out of style. The stone is held in place by delicate metal claws that are pushed over its outer edge. Such settings showcase diamonds very well, because you can see 3/4 of the stone.
Gypsy setting. Gypsy set stones lie flush with the metal that surrounds them, without visible claws. If you love the simple, modern look — and if you’re concerned that your ring may catch on clothing — this is the setting for you.
Pavé or bead setting. A stone setter drills holes into metal and pushes tiny “beads” of metal around the stone, which hold it. This is a timeless technique often used throughout history. You’ll frequently see it in antique or vintage jewellery – and you may determine that it suits your own tastes, now.
Channel setting. Stones are held in place by two bars of metal. This style of setting has many different applications and some very elegant design possibilities, from solitaire engagement rings that are channel or pressure set, to eternity bands with many small stones set flush in the band.
We also create special light effects through the careful choice of surface decoration, which can take several forms. At Era Design, we explore the kind of finish and decoration that will best enhance your custom jewellery.
High Polish. Most jewellery comes with a highly polished surface, because it compliments the sparkle of gemstones so beautifully. If this is the finish you choose, you can easily have it repolished it once a year to remove scratches. You can also keep your jewellery bright and shiny by washing it in soap and water once a week and buffing with a rouge cloth.
Sandblasting. Sandblasting gives metal a matte or frosted look. This offers an excellent way to create contrast in your design. However sandblasting is not a permanent surface treatment, so if you choose this option, you may want to get your jewellery re-done every year to keep it looking new.
Hammer Texture. The surface of the metal is beaten with a polished hammer to create a web of soft “dents” that pick up the light and sparkle or reflect. It highlights that your piece is truly hand made.
Filigree or Piercing. These techniques use either very fine wires soldered together or a fine jeweller’s saw to create lacy patterns in metal. You will frequently see these techniques in vintage or antique jewellery – and they may well suit the look you wish to achieve today. Era Design currently uses CAD technology to great effect in replicating this look.
Engraving. Many beautiful effects can be achieved include the following:
- Hand engraving can be as simple as having your initials engraved on the inside of a ring. Or you can enhance a plain band with Celtic patterns, scrolling lines, or many other types of design.
- Milligraining looks like a linear beaded pattern on a metal edge. A stone setter can enhance pavé settings by using this ancient technique.
- Bright cutting creates mirror bright boxes around small stones bead-set in metal. This technique enhances the sparkle of the stones.