CASE STUDY: Mismatched inherited diamonds #2

RESETTING

This week we continue our design case study of mismatched inherited stones. This week I'm creating pendants and earrings. Please see previous post for our rings design solutions. I ended up designing a few pieces for this blog post and will share all of them! These images are Vray renderings and are not finished pieces. As they are just works in progress, hand created details such as engraving and millgrain are added after casting, polish and stone setting. As in the previous post, we have chosen a 0.10ct and 0.21ct round diamond. The basic solutions for designing with mismatched stones are:

1. use one diamond save one for another project.
2. hide the size difference with setting tricks
3. highlight the size difference

EARRINGS

First up is a pair of earrings. Contrary to what you may believe this is an ideal way to hide two stones of different sizes. Why? They are worn quite far apart on either side of your face. No one will see them together. Earrings are a good example of how paying a bit extra for custom designed settings can produce the best results. While you can buy premade settings for stones, you can't disguise the differences in sizes of the two stones. In our case study, we matched the outside diameter of the pair of bezels — only the stones are different sizes. 

Earrings starting from $450 + taxes

PENDANT

Our second design is an example of highlighting the mismatch. This drop shaped filigree pendant looks balanced with graduated diamonds. With this design, I'm tempted to millgrain it after its cast polished and set. Then it would look very Edwardian!

 

 

Pendant starting from $850 + taxes

 

TWO PENDANTS

Our third project uses just one diamond. Here I designed two pendants for spring. A cherry blossom in rose gold and a twig in brushed white gold. If you have more stones than you need why not be generous? Do you have a friend or family member who deserves a special present? Jewellery is frequently more than the sum of its parts. Recently we had a family come to Era who had inherited a few links of a bracelet. We designed a different piece of jewellery for each of them set with the stones they inherited. It was a beautiful way of honouring their loved one. 

Cherry blossom pendant from $550 + taxes

Twig pendant starting from $750 + taxes

 

TIPS ON REUSING STONES

Please check with the store or designer what their acceptance policy is. Not every jeweller accepts stones from outside sources. To appraise or not to appraise? Yes Please! A thorough appraisal with a qualified appraiser can determine many things:

• Damage or treatments to stones ( yes diamonds can chip!)

• the quality and approximate size of the stones before remounting

• and the value of the pieces

Some pieces should not be re-set such as signed designer pieces. They will lose value if taken apart. Evaluate vintage pieces by someone who understands the antique jewellery market. Every year precious vintage jewellery is destroyed because of hasty and uninformed decisions. Many of these pieces would fetch greater prices intact at auction than taken apart. If your stones are damaged or treated can they be reset? In many cases yes, but it's at the discretion of the jeweller if they choose to take on the job or not. For damaged/delicate/treated stones, expect to sign a waiver acknowledging you are aware of the risks involved in setting your stones. Have household insurance on very valuable pieces of jewellery. Restyling jewellery is frequently very rewarding, you can learn about yourself and your creative tastes. Instead having of a box of random jewellery sitting unused in your home, change it into something you enjoy wearing!

Thanks for reading, Rosemary